Sparkling
(referred to in France as Champagne when produced in this region)
Sparkling wines can be made from virtually any grape variety, but Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are those most often employed here in Sonoma County. The former makes for lean, vibrant wines—they often have that marvelously yeasty French bakery smell—that can age nicely; the latter adds a bit of that strawberry character, creating a wine that makes any picnic that much better.
A crisp, near tooth-etching acidity lies at the heart of every great sparkler, so the grapes necessarily are grown in the cooler locations. In Sonoma County, that means Carneros, Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley.
Part of the fun of sparkling wine is that there are so many styles made. If you ferment the juice with the grape skins, you might draw enough color for a blanc de noir or Rose style (where the wine takes on just a “blush” of pinkish color); some even try for a fuller rouge (red) coloration. Most Sonoma County sparklers are straw-gold in color, just as most are near dry in the finish. However, sparkling Rose is very popular now and is very pleasing and festive.
Dry sparklers, because of their immensely refreshing crispness, are amenable to all manner of food match-ups, from mussels and oysters to the array of white meats from chicken to veal or pork. Iconoclasts say that sparkling wine (particularly Blanc de Blanc) is the ideal wine companion to … potato chips or popcorn! There are a wide variety of cheeses that go with sparkling wines – from aged hard cheeses to rich soft ones.
The biggest mistake we make with sparkling wine is to wait for a special occasion. The reverse is far more fun: This is where you let the sparkling wine create the special occasion!
