Sometimes referred to as the “Queen” of the noble varieties, Chardonnay is the white variety grown in Burgundy (France). Winemakers like the grape because it is so malleable in the cellar. If you pick the fruit early, you might make a lean, Chablis style; if you let the grapes hang, you are looking for a fuller, more robust wine that can handle a good deal of time in oak.

Usually, we look to the cooler locations for Chardonnay, which means the Carneros (on the north end of San Francisco Bay) or the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. But Chardonnay’s versatility also allows for some slightly warmer regions, including Sonoma Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Mountain.

In the cooler locations, the wines show off green apple and pear-like fruitiness; in the warmer locations, you’re more likely to see buttery and creamy notes, with Golden Delicious or Fuji apple fruit. Some winemakers pull out all the stops, and attain butterscotch and licorice accents that are quite enticing.

For an easy party pleaser, try aged hard cheeses like Gouda or Aged Jack and hazelnuts with your favorite Chardonnay. With a lean Chardonnay, go to the ocean for grilled swordfish or tuna. For the fuller, richer Chardonnays, you might try a mushroom risotto or maybe pasta or chicken in a rich cream sauce, or even pork tenderloin marinated in soy and teriyaki sauce. The bigger Chardonnays can easily handle such challenges. Don’t be afraid to stretch the envelop a bit; Sonoma County Chardonnays are up to the test. By the way, Chardonnays are so rich that they are also pleasing all by themselves.